Monday, 15 October 2018

Spain v England. 15/10/18

"If the tapas is this good across Portugal, it isn't hard to see why you'd risk leaving your kids in a hotel room to go out and eat it."

Spain 2-3 England. Estadio Bentio Villamarin.
Monday 15/10/18
Seville was named as Lonely Planet’s number one city to travel to for 2018 and it isn't hard to see why.

It has over 2,200 years of history. It's been a Roman city, a Muslim city and a Christian city with every race or religion that conquered it leaving a deep impression on the modern-day Seville.

The Alcazar is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe having first been used in the first century. There's an old town to rival anything in Eastern Europe. It's the birthplace of Flamenco and the place from where Christopher Columbus set off to discover the Americas. There's great food, cheap wine and England producing a potential coming-of-age performance in Estadio Benito Villamarin to beat Spain 3-2.

OK, so that last one didn't actually make it into Lonely Planet, but it should've done. In their first away game since the World Cup, Gareth Southgate’s side produced a performance that topped the heights of the summer jaunt to Russia to go second in League A Group 4 of the UEFA Nations League. "We are staying up" as the 3,000 strong England contingent high up in Real Betis’ fantastic stadium sang.

I went into this trip with pretty low expectations given a complete indifference to Spain. I'd visited three times before and been accosted by angry animal rights activists in Barcelona and then pick-pocketed outside the Bernabeu, losing a ticket to the Champions League Quarter Final between Real Madrid and Wolfsburg in the process. For all of Lonely Planet's gushing praise of Seville, perhaps it should simply say, “Seville was a city that made Scott McCarthy actually like Spain.” You won't find much higher praise than that.

You know there isn't much to do in a town when street
signs are directing you to pubs...
With a stadium ban in place for England's trip to Croatia ruling out the prospect of a tantalising Rijeka-Seville double, the trip instead began in Portugal. Faro to be exact, a town of 64,560 people known for it's historic centre, fishing industry and laid-back approach to life. The size of Faro meant there wasn't actually much to do there other than relax, eat fish and drink £10 bottles of locally produced wine which suited us fine.

Nice pint of Super Bock, Portugal's finest

What could've livened things up was some lower league football. For reasons unknown, Portuguese football outside of the Primeira Liga seems to take place exclusively on a Sunday. The local team, SC Farense, play a bit of a hike out of the town centre while Stadium Algarve, which was used in Euro 2004 and has also provided temporary asylum for the Gibraltar National Football team was out of bounds at about 10 miles away. That meant that Faro was a football free zone except for watching the closing stages of Portugal’s away game with Poland in a bar adorned with murals of Cristiano Ronaldo.

Tapas <insert joke about Maddie McCann here>

Clay jug full of a litre of wine for under £10? Yes please, barman
The lack of football was made up for by Faro being home to the best tapas restaurant in the world, a tasco do joao. Owned by a local family, the home made tomato dip was out-of-the-world, the dishes kept flowing and the wine was £10 a bottle for a really good drop of white. With Praia da Luz just 70 miles down the road, it wasn't hard to see why Kate and Gerry decided to leave their daughter in a hotel room and go for it tapas if it is this good across the Algarve.

Hope you like fish...
It turned out the next morning that drinking more wine than the Tapas 7 put together wasn't a sensible move with a boat trip to some islands off Faro on the agenda. Regular readers will be acquainted with the fact that I suffer with sea sickness anytime I leave dry dock. Even crossing from Portsmouth to the Isle of Wight leads to a battle between will and stomach contents, so smashing into waves on a speed boat at 100mph driven by a madman called Phil was never likely to have good results. Remarkably, I was only sick in my mouth and the journey was worth it for the stunning views once we got to Ilha da Culatra and several cocktails which settled the nerves ahead of the journey back to the mainland.
Only being sick once on the boat journey to Ilha da Culatra was a success
Scenic shot as Katie enjoys the Deserted Island
"Sex on the Island", a clever poly on Sex on the Beach
There were no such travel dramas for the bus trip to Seville, a short two-and-a-half hour hop across the border. Almost instantly, Seville was in credit with the discovery of Festival de las Naciones, a market-like set up on Prado de San Sebastian which featured stalls selling food and beer from around the world.

While some England fans were experiencing Spanish culture in Irish bars and goading overenthusiastic riot police, here we were sipping Mythos from Greece, Pilser Callao from Peru, Rolihlahla from South Africa and Presidente from Venezeula. An excellent way to warm up for the game the following day.

Festival de las Naciones
A quick trip through Greece, Peru, South Africa and, er, Spain
 Real Betis are considered the cities working class team with Sevilla the side for the middle classes. As a result, Estadio Benito Villamarin is situated in the Heliopolis area of the city. It seats 60,720 making it the fourth largest stadium in Spain and was opened in 1929 with expansions following in 1982, 2000 and 2017.

Due to Seville receiving an average of 313 days of sunshine a year, it doesn't have a roof. Needless to say after three days of blazing sunshine and 30 degree heat since we arrived in firstly Faro and then Seville, on game day it didn't just rain - it poured.

More stadiums should have water fountains outside
Perhaps this shouldn't have come as a surprise with Katie present. She won't thank me for writing this, but she has a comically bad record when it comes to away games. Her previous trip with England was so wet that Noah could be seen building his ark next to Lithuania’s LFF stadionas and she's been to seven Brighton away games in the Premier League and in six of them, the Albion have failed to score.

In order to seek refuge from the rain, we met up with fellow Brighton fans Ciaran, Lewis and Mark in a bar called 100 Montaditos which was next to Sevilla’s Ramon Sanchez-Pizjuan Stadium. 100 Montaditos are a chain who sell small tapas-style sandwiches at €1 a pop and pints of Cruzcampo for €2. For all Seville’s historic churches and fantastic architecture, Montaditos might just be the single greatest thing about the city. Another thing for Lonely Planet to take note of.

From there, it was a metro back to the Festival de las Naciones for a whistle-stop tour of Argentina (Quilmes) and Mexico (Corona and tequila) before catching a bus towards the stadium. With the rain still falling, we headed off to meet more of the normal crew in Kev, Fiona and Sara. They were hiding in what can only be described as a school canteen which served beer. It also served food, or in this case, cold croquettes and chips. Had Gordon Ramsay been present - unlikely, given Scotland’s presence in lowly group League C Group 1 of the Nations League - then he'd have wandered into the kitchen shouting “THEY'RE ******* FROZEN.” We happen to be much easier customers to please and so as long as the €2.50 Kruzcampo continued to flow we were all happy.

The rain in Spain falls mainly on Real Betis
Good luck vertigo sufferers with the steepness of the stands in Estadio Bentio Villamarin
Happiness turned to delight about 45 minutes before kick off when the rain ceased. That made for a pleasant evening at Estadio Benito Villamarin. The stadium itself is fantastic, two tiers of steep sloping seats rising into the Seville sky. The floodlights are those that Spain really does specialise in, four short pylons raised slightly above the back row behind each goal supporting a long row of lights. 

Open air stadiums can be notoriously devoid of atmosphere without a roof to keep the noise in, so it says much about the design of Estadio Benito Villamarin that the England supporters could generate a real racket. The ridiculous gradient of the stands helps - when you looked down towards the goal Jordan Pickford was minding in the second half, it felt like a sheer drop.

With such noise generated in a game in which the home support were largely quiet, it makes you wonder how noisy the place could be with a full house behind Betis, especially when they take on Sevilla in the derby. Another game for the bucket list, that one.

The atmosphere in the England section was of course helped by what went on on the pitch. Eric Dier set the tone early on by nearly breaking Sergio Ramos in half right below the away section before the Three Lions raced into a 3-0 lead through a Raheem Sterling brace and Marcus Rashford, playing some of the most incisive football in years. People were pinching themselves at half time and I was so shocked I couldn't even navigate my way to the bar on the off chance they sold a beer.

We'd never seen Brighton cock up a 3-0 lead before - Coventry on the other hand...
The talk on the terraces was of how England could cock things up. The Brighton contingent struggled to recall a game in which they'd seen the Seagulls throw away a three goal lead before so if/when the inevitable happened, it would be a first for us. Sara had seen Coventry do it so this wouldn't quite be uncharted territory for her.

Spain did come close to completing a comeback. Paco Alcacer beat Pickford and then Ramos headed home with the final touch of the game for 3-2. Previously England sides might have crumbled in a second half under such Spain pressure, but this version did what was necessary to get over the line.

A scoreboard you don't see everyday
Not even a 45 minute lock in could dampen the England sections spirits after that
 Some pundits compared it to the victory over Germany in Berlin two years ago and while that was a fantastic night in the Olympic Stadium, this felt different. Roy Hodgson’s side on that occasion weren't so young and lacking in international experience. There didn't seem much that they could learn from winning that game, especially as there was a sense that Germany had thrown it away rather than England winning it.

To storm into a three goal lead away against a side who have been in relentless form since the World Cup and then manage and see off the game was a very different type of result. It gave players with few caps invaluable experience and after a run to the last four in Russia in which England were accused of never meeting a decent team, proved they do have what it takes to compete with the best in the world. All of that made this one of the greatest England away games in recent times.

Not even an unnecessary 45 minute lock in and a three mile walk back to the city centre afterwards could dampen the mood. Nor could the attitude of a fat Spanish waiter, ironically the spitting image of Rafa Benitez, trying to refuse service of beer to any England fans who didn't order a main meal in his bar. His mood wasn't improved by everyone buying drinks at the bar, taking them to a table and then pretending to spend the next half hour looking at the menu.

Seville Cathedral in all her Monday night glory
After abandoning Rafa and his fascist attitude without having been forced into forking out £40 for food, we discovered that Seville has something for everyone, even those who want to party all night long as we celebrated the win in a street full of bars drinking some strange sangria cocktails and Jagerbombs at €2 a pop to end the night.

Not a building you want t be climbing on a hangover
The views from the top over the rest of Seville were worth it though
The tomb of Christoper Columbus 
The Alcazar, the oldest royal palace still in use in Spain
With a further two days in Seville, we took the Lonely Planet approach and climbed the cathedral (not good on a hangover), wandered around the Alcazar and explored the area of Triana just across the river. Most intriguing was Torre del Oro which translates as the Golden Tower, so called because it was where every ship returning to Europe from the Americas had to dock and pay 50% of its cargo to the city. This was then reinvested in the beautiful architecture and stunning churches that make Seville so picturesque.

Torre del Oro, home of the 50% tax. Don't give Jeremy Corbyn ideas...
The home of the cities other club, Sevilla
Return visited needed to tick off Ramon Sanchez-Pizjuan Stadium
Our final stop was Sevilla's Ramon Sanchez-Pizjuan Stadium, only for it to turn out that tours weren't available on that particular day. The home of the Los Rojiblancos looked impressive from the outside and the fact we couldn't get in adds another reason to return to Seville.

The list keeps getting longer and that is perhaps the biggest endorsement Seville as a city can have. A man who previously disliked Spain now wants to return. Forget about that Lonely Planet recommendation, Seville has the coveted Scott McCarthy recommendation.

Spain: David De Gea, Jonny Castro Otto, Nacho, Sergio Ramos 1, Marcos Alonso, Thiago Alcantra, Sergio Busquets, Saul  Niguez (Paco Alcacer), Iago Aspas (Dani Ceballos),  Rodrigo Moreno (Alvaro Moratta), Marco Asensio.

England: Jordan Pickford, Kieran Trippier (Trent Alexander-Arnold), Harry Maguie, Joe Gomez, Ben Chilwell, Harry Winks (Nathaniel Chalobah), Eric Dier, Ross Barkley (Kyle Walker), Raheem Sterling 2, Harry Kane, Marcus Rashford.

Attendance: 50,355

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